Seoul

Went to Seoul this weekend. The subway system is phenomenal. The English translations are not.

The trip was two days long, and it rained non-stop. Three ETAs and I visited Gyeongbokgung Palace, est. 1395 (see photos). I LOVE the mountains in the background. It is, according to Seoul's 100 Best, "The most representative remaining example of Joseon Dynasty architecture, it is the culmination of the finest techniques of the age." Admission, $3. They have a changing of the guard ceremony, and I enjoyed it more than the English version. The soldiers have fascinating costumes (see photos, b&w courtesy Katie Dale). We also toured Jongmyo "where the ancestral tablets of the kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty are enshrined...This majestic building has been designated by UNESCO as a world heritage site."

Outside of the Jongmyo grounds was one of my favorite bits of Korea: an outdoor noraebaang. Noraebaangs are basically karaoke bars in Korea. Koreans LOVE noraebaangs. However, an outdoor one is particularly special. In the context, it was downright jawdropping. It was pouring (monsoon season remember). The park had a wooden shelter where people could have picnics and such in inclement weather. There were at least 30 elderly Korean men, and a couple women, packed under this canopy, most of which looked sauced. We could hear the music from a couple blocks away but had no idea what it was. You see, Koreans love noraebaangs, but that doesn't correspond to the general population having a good ear. We stopped and stared until a nice little man came up and gestured for us to join in. We graciously declined. Some cultural experiences are best observed.

On another note, we saw some fascinating English storefronts. Including this one for a store called YES (see photo for proof this exists):

"Hey June!! Didn't you see my panty and brassiere? Well...isn't that yours? No! How about this one? It's mine!! My underwear!! Why don't go to yes? Yes? Yes!! Yes. Let's go to yes!!!!"