Friday, March 18, 2005
Katie's Birthday
Katie opened her presents from Maura and I and couldn't contain her giddiness. There is an olive wood store in Monastiraki that sells cooking utensils. The wood is non-pourous and doesn't retain the taste and color of the food it handles. It's virtually indestructible, but must never go in the dishwasher. Katie now has a serving spoon, spatula, and small cutting board from that store. Next to the knives Matt Lafave gave her, I've never seen her so thrilled with presents.
Next, we walked over to Mike's Irish Pub for a pint. Katie had her first pint of Guiness! But before she could drink, we had to toast. I had printed out some Irish toasts and we all took turns toasting Katie.
May your glass be ever full.
May the roof over your head be always strong.
And may you be in heaven half an hour before the devil knows you're dead.
May those who love us love us.
And those that don’t love us, may God turn their hearts.
And if He doesn’t turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles,
So we’ll know them by their limping.
St. Patrick was a gentleman
Who through strategy and stealth
Drove all the snakes from Ireland.
Here’s toasting to his health.
But not too many toastings
Lest you lose yourself and then
Forget the good St. Patrick
And see all those snakes again.
Who is a friend but someone to toast,
Someone to gibe, someone to roast.
My friends are the best friends
Loyal, willing and able.
Now let’s get to drinking!
Glasses off the table!
Finally, I toasted with the Irishman's Philosophy:
There are only two things to worry about:
Either you are well or you are sick.
If you are well, then there is nothing to worry about.
But if you are sick, there are two things to worry about:
Either you will get well or you will die.
If you get well, then there is nothing to worry about.
But if you die, there are two things to worry about:
Either you will go to heaven or you will go to hell.
If you go to heaven, then you have nothing to worry about.
But if you go to hell, you'll be so damn busy shaking hands with all your friends, then you won't have time to worry!
Katie thoroughly enjoyed her "roasting" and called for a shot of Bailey's. I had a Woodpecker which is an awesome, sweet cider/beer, but refrained from ordering another because it was 7 Euro a bottle. I went into the bar hoping for a live Irish band, but it wasn't to be. Instead, a Greek cover band sang U2, Red Hot Chili Peppers, and Nancy Sinatra songs. The lead singer sounded a whole lot like Cher, but was indeed not a robot. Imitation is never as good as the original, we learned, because the bar actually RAN OUT of Guiness. Shocking! There were quite a few Americans there, but we did happen to see some Brits and couple of Irishmen. The rest of the place was full of Greeks with mullets and stiletto space boots.
Last, we took a cab to the Psiri area of the city and went to a place called Club Spirit. The club had no cover charge, but we had to order something in order to stay-Heineckens all around! There was a dance floor that was deserted to begin with but very quickly was filled up with a variety of people. It was fascinating to watch those people dance. You could tell who were Greeks and who weren't. You could also tell that it is SO much more acceptable for people to dance however the hell they want to here. What I mean is that no one was self-conscious about their lack of rhythm or eccentric moves. There was a man (about 30) dancing the robot during 50cent and what looked like a banker playing air guitar during Prince. One man in particular was so in the moment that at times looked like that famous internet video kid who swung around a stick like Darth Maul. To top the night off, Cake's version of "I Will Survive" blasted through the speakers. THAT was pretty awesome.
When our celebration had been fulfilled, Katie and I walked home and promptly went to bed.
I leave you now with an Irish joke:
An Irishman, Englishman and Scottsman go into a pub and each order a pint of Guinness. Just as the bartender hands them over, three flies buzz down and one lands in eachof the pints. The Englishman looks disgusted, pushes his pint away and demands another pint. The Scottsman picks out the fly, shrugs, and takes a long swallow. The Irishman reaches in to the glass, pinches the fly between his fingers and shakes him while yelling, "Spit it out, ya bastard! Spit it out!"
Thursday, March 17, 2005
Carnival Festivities (Part 2)
I went to the biggest, most famous parade in all of Athens. This was a culturally fascinating experience. First of all, parades are quite different than their American counterparts. American parades are typically centered around floats. Although this Athenian parade lasted about three hours, there were only 3 "floats" throughout the entire thing. They were all pulled by worn-out pickups from the 80s, covered by tarps to conceal their ugliness. The floats themselves were...I'm trying to think of a word that doesn't put a value judgement on it...well, they were not the scale and complexity that American floats are. One was a bull, another a castle, the third a platform for Miss Athens to stand on and wave from.
You must be asking yourself, "If there were only three floats, what else was in the parade?"
Well, there were people...dressed up in silly costumes...dancing with no sense of shame.
Basically, groups of people dressed up as other "ethnicities" and danced down the street while throwing confetti and spraying foam from cans. The costumes were completely stereotypical and reminded me of costumes-in-a-bag that you can pick up at grocery stores back home. Some examples of "ethnicities" participating were: Chinese (including a dragon), Japanese, Mexican, Spanish, Viking, Egyptian, Arabian, Brazilian, Cowboy, and Indian (Native American). It was interesting to see different stereotypical impressions from the perspective of another culture. For example, it was VERY difficult for me to watch these people parade around as "Indians," closely followed by the cowboys. At one point, the "Indians" started dancing around their "Chief." They were apparently raising him from the dead by circling him with their spears and making the "Indian" noise by hitting their mouths repeatedly with their hands. Every inch of me cringed. Greeks are not known for their political correctness, so this obvious public display of stereotypes was relatively not surprising.
What I found endearing was the fact that all ages joined in the madness. Middle-aged adults were shaking their groove thing just as much as the pre-teens. All were enjoying themselves, and no one took themself seriously. That would never happen in the States.
The whole construction of the parade itself was typically Greek: tons of people, LOUD music, with little sense of personal space. The music was not Greek. Instead, it was a strange collection of Ricky Martin techno remixes, and everyone seemed to know the words. Shakira was another popular song selection and I recall singing along in English to the Greek version of "I Will Survive."
Happy St. Patrick's Day!
Kathleen
Patrick
Bridget
James
Maureen
Brenna
Michael
Sound Irish to you?
So, today we are celebrating TWO holidays at Mike's Irish Pub, which happens to be the only known Irish establishment in this city of 6 million. We've made reservations...sort of. Christina called and the owner said he'd kick somebody out of a table when we arrived.
Katie's bedecked in green today. She's even got the shamrock temporary tattoo on her face. Perhaps I'll follow suit.
I hope everyone's leprechaun traps were finished in time, but sincerely doubt that those clever little creatures have fallen for our silly little plots against them.
Eat some soda bread and raise a Guiness!
May the road rise to meet you,
May the wind be always at your back,
May the sun shine warm on your face,
The rain fall softly on your fields;
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Happy Birthday Tyler!
Thursday, March 10, 2005
Carnival Festivities (Part 1)
Friday was a "huge outdoor concert featuring: HIP-HOP WITH ZN, NGC, DREAM PROSPECTORS, NEKRIKISIGI, INSANES IN THE POOL. HEAVY METAL WITH CRIMSON FIRE, STRIKELIGHT, WHIPANGEL, SELFRAGE". I was dying to witness what a Greek metalband sounded and looked like, but I never got to. It rained earlier that evening, and the Greeks being total wusses with rain decided to just not show up. That area of town was completely deserted when we stepped off the metro. Had tumbleweeds been indigenous flora to Athens, I believe one would have rolled by.
Saturday was a "Festive Street Fair and Dance Party with DJ Niko "Nino" Vourliotis". Once again, we took the metro, got off, and were confronted with a ghost town. We wandered the streets a bit, found another group of CYA students doing the same, and decided to eat some crepes. I had a chocolate and banana crepe...yummm. While walking back, we passed a video rental place that had movies playing the window display. To our chagrin, the video of choice that night was "Lord of the Dance featuring Michael Flatley." Of course we all immediately stopped and gawked. (Both Katie and Lucianna are Irish dancers at ND.) It was both absolute hilarity and utter horror. Now, I'm all for Irish Dance, but that specific production reminded me more of WWF Smackdown than Riverdance. Flatley himself is already a creepy individual, what with his tight pants, poofy shirts, and curly mullet. However, add to that an incredulous story: Flatley is obviously the Billy Elliot/MC Hammer of the galaxy (at least, the stage looked like a set from Star Trek: The Original Series). This other guy who wears a shimmery tank top with glittered gauntlets and a villain's mask obviously doesn't like being one-upped by "the Mullet" (as I like to call him). So, the bad guy (who I'll call Hans because he'd be comfortable in a German disco) orders his Irish dancing thugs to dance the Mullet into submission. There is a very dramatic scene where Hans rips away the flashy belt the Mullet had picked out in order to accentuate his ensemble. The belt is HUGE and could easily be mistaken for one of Hulk Hogan's, except for the "Lord of the Dance" etched into the front. Apparently, the Mullet is really Lord Mullet. Anyway, somehow Lord Mullet escapes and comes back as an even better dancer because this time he's got a glittered headband and black leather pants. We didn't stay for the ending, but I'm pretty sure Lord Mullet and Hans joined forces to launch their new clothing line.
Sunday we went to the "Big, Big Carnival Parade!" because it is "the best and most famous in Athens!!" It was FASCINATING! (More to come later, must rest fingers.)
Wednesday, March 09, 2005
Midterms
Byzantine Art & Architecture exam: TERRIBLE! I studied all day yesterday and I left feeling like a gutted fish. It was like a chapter from Faulkner's AS I LAY DYING. I am a fish. Katie shared the same sentiment saying she felt "eviscerated." Damn her descriptive journalism mumbo-jumbo. The test was really difficult partly because the amount of information we had to know (~800 years of information) and because I am convinced I don't think like an art historian. I cannot connect the dots that others can in a seemingly easy logic. I am also convinced that I will NEVER be an architect, nor study classical architecture. There are simply too many terms.
The midterm consisted of three parts: comparing slides, a short answer, and an essay. There were 6 sets of two slides. We had five minutes per pair to write down what, when, where, why, and why they are important. The short answer question is as follows:
Draw a plan of a "typical" mid-Byzantine (10-11 cent.) church and label it with the appropriate terms from the list below. Define briefly the function of each area you label.
Terms: ambo, apse, arcade, arcosolia, cubicula, diakonikon, diptych, dodekaorton, enkolpion, iconoclast, nave, naos, narthex, orangs, paten, prothesis, psalter, solea, stylite, synthrono, tablion, templon, transept, typikon.
Yeah...
ambo-I'm pretty sure this was a mid 70s dance craze
apse-a term used when one drops something, "Apse!"
arcade-a place where males go to pump the money their mother gave them into a machine that inhibits any kind of "interaction" with other humans save the scary janitor.
arcosolia-this medieval/goth band had a number one hit ("We wish we lived a thousand years ago, but without the unpleasantness of no access to black nail polish.") in Germany where anyone can make "music."
cubicula-yet another bastardization of vampire mythology. This vampire worked for a box company and had to file TPS reports.
diakonikon-coming to an amusement park near you!
diptych-something my dad used to call us when we screwed up royally
dodekaorton-collective name for the 12 sons of a NASCAR driver
enkolpion-who invents a word like this?
iconoclast-phrase shouted by a late student in middle-school
nave-isn't this a body part?
naos-a colony founded by MENSA members
narthex-a colony visited by the Star Ship Enterprise
orans-not appropriate for children
paten-makes me think of a famous piccolo tune
prothesis-supporter of theses
psalter-usually placed in the middle of the table, next to the spepperer
solea-yet another emaciated model that goes by only her first name
stylite-Paris Hilton?
synthronon-a new comic book hero's hideout
tablion-fancy name for a fancy table setting
templon-place where one can handpick a temp with a nice selection of styles, sizes, and prices
transept-polite term for "hobo"
typikon-new annual convention for stenographers
I'm not positive what she was aiming at, but I'm pretty sure my definitions probably missed the mark.
The essay question was as follows: Citing specific examples, discuss the importance of Imperial patronage from Constantine the Great through Theodora (843) in determining the appearance and the role of art in Byzantine society. This question was worth 55 points. Usually I can bullshit my way to earn half the points, but there was NO WAY I even reached that in this case.
In a way I feel cheated because I actually studied really hard for this test. There should be a reciprocal relationship between studying and exams! If I study, I should know what to say on the exam. I SHAKE MY FIST AT YOU! (Well, not YOU, at the test...)
Attic Tragedy exam: PIECE OF CAKE! Before the teacher got there, Caleb announced that the challenge was to fit four specific words into the essay. These words were: hogwash, ragtag, ..., and buttery. It is my pleasure to inform you that no less than 5 people completed the task. I would have, except I didn't want to spend the time when I could have been studying for Greek.
Greek exam: LONG! Too...many...Greek...words...in my...head. The sad part is that my basic knowledge of this language is extremely remedial, even with over 500 words on flashcards.
Aegean & Ancient Greek Art & Archaeology paper: I FINALLY got it back. Prof. Diamant had lost it and I was afraid he was going to need another copy, thereby grading it separately, thereby knowing the specific author of the paper, thereby being very disappointed with my lack of intelligence. To my utter amazement, I GOT AN A-! There are very few paper grades that I've been surprised by, this probably tops them all. This guy is notoriously nitpicky and a little bit of an asshole. I think my grade was helped by the fact that my thesis agreed with his opinion on the matter. (Is Mycenae a city?-No.) Whatever, I'm still proud of it and may even send it back to ND to be put up on the fridge.
So, to sum up: I am not and will never be an art historian. My lit. test was buttery. Καταλαβαινω λιγο Ελληνικα. Finally, according to Prof. Diamant's atrocious handwriting, my paper was "mostly good thow more Myce evideure wuld be uide. A-"
Enkolpion, anyone?
Tuesday, March 08, 2005
Happy International Women's Day!
I'm celebrating by eating custard, which also happened to be served for lunch today. Shelece says, "Go out and buy yourselves some chocolate." Don't mind if I do...
There is a march scheduled at 4 PM at the Panepitismou Square. Hopefully I'll make it down there to witness Greek women, en masse. Wish me luck.
Friday, March 04, 2005
Happy Tsiknopempti
The origins of this tradition stem back to the good ole days of paganism. The ancient Greeks wanted to please the gods, so one of the ways they did it was to send up the smells of cooking meat.
By tradition, everyone, even the poorer members of the community, is supposed to grill pieces of meat with a little fat on it so that the smoke can fill the air and let others know that this day is being celebrated. This is how "Tsiknopempti" was named. Each family cooked its meat and took it to another home, or everyone gathered in one home to cook together, sending the smell of grilled meat throughout the neighborhood.
Today most people celebrate this Thursday in local taverns with friends and family. Apparently, the younsters dress up in masks and throw confetti at others. I'm told they even hit people with plastic bats. So tonight I'm off to a taverna with Maura, Manos, and family! Kalinixta! (Goodnight!)
By the way, Happy Birthday Mom!
Thursday, March 03, 2005
Photos-Epidavros, Franchthi Cave, the Mediterranean, and Corinth!
Noelle and Katie at the Theater in Epidavros. Katie taking the stage.
Franchthi Cave-
Here's the collapsed roof.
Katie climbing down. (Has anyone seen her happier?)
Noelle climbing down.
Here's what we climbed down from.
Mediterranean-
Before trekking up the cave, our group had a fantastic lunchbreak. Here's the view from where we ate. And Katie is once again, very happy. The island in the background is dubbed, "Rich Man's Island." This guy is a VERY successful Greek boat man, probably richer than Onassis. He owns this island and uses a helicopter to attend meetings. He loved the beautiful view his island home provided, so he bought the land on the other side of the water so that no development could be built there...and uglify his picturesque view. The only structure in the area we stopped at was a small Orthodox chapel.
The site is sitting right alongside the Mediterranean. I'm very proud of this photo. It will make a great computer background image.
So for all you who are asking yourself, "Now, where in the world was Noelle on February 12, 2005?" .... here's the answer.... I was HERE! IN the Mediterranean. [Katie didn't go in because she "doesn't like sand in her shoes." Pft!]
Argolid-
On the way back, I snapped some shots of the unique Argolid countryside. As you can see, the terrain is nothing like good old South Bend's. [This picture of a sinkhole is specifically meant for Mazzillo, and any other geology buffs there are out there.]
Corinth-
Oh and Mom, I just thought you might want a photo of what Katie and I will be doing next. *wink
Franchthi Cave
In the afternoon, we hiked out to an archaeological site called Franchthi Cave. [N: It was a beautiful hike on a gorgeous day.] I know I’m a nerd, but this was seriously awesome, even for people who don't really care about archaeology. Digging in a cave is logistically tricksy because you’re generally not dealing with a lot of wide open space AND because caves that have been inhabited once have often been inhabited many, many times over, which means that there are lots and lots of layers of STUFF. So we got to see the remains of vertical archaeology, which is basically painstakingly precise digging of really deep shafts.
This cave had been occupied off and onfrom around 30,000 BC (BCE for you politically correct ones) to 3,000 BC. Since it was excavated back in the late 1960s and early ‘70s, there wasn’t any man-influenced stuff to look at, but seeing the effects of 32,000 years’ worth of geological change was pretty neat. It was also kind of weird to realize that people had lived in this place back when there was no such thing as agriculture.
"In the Early Neolithic period (ca. 6000 B.C.) the area of human occupation extended outside of the cave for the first time. The roughly built walls visible in this photo probably served as retaining walls on the uphill side of a settlement which extended further to the west and is now submerged." (Indiana U.)
N: At the back of the cave is a amazingly clear pool of water. When the archaeologists finally got the equipment to send divers down into it, they were greeted by two, very angry eels. Both divers admitted to wetting their wet suits, but managed to dispose of the creatures with some fishing spears. Upon entering the water, it was quickly apparent that the pool was mostly salt water with a thin layer of fresh water on top. It used to be completely fresh water, but the sea level has since risen dramatically in this area. "Today the cave is only ca. 75 meters from the shore and ca. 15 meters above sea level. When human beings first began using the cave in the Paleolithic period, the sea level was much lower and the coast was perhaps 5-6 kilometers farther away." (I. U.) The divers picked up artifacts resting on the bottom. These appear to be cult materials thrown in at a much later date than the cave was occupied.
"In order to "maximize" the amount of evidence recovered from the excavations, all of the soil was carefully saved for either dry-sieving (shown here) or wet-sieving. Samples of soil were regularly saved for "wet-sieving" (also called "water-sieving" or "flotation"). As the soil is put into water, some organic materials float to the surface and are collected ("flot") while heavier materials (small fragments of stone, bone, shell, carbonized seeds, etc.) are collected into "heavy" and "light" fractions. These samples are then dried, sorted by hand, and analyzed under a microscope. The wet-sieving at Franchthi took place right at the shore using two "custom-built" machines and water pumped from the bay." (I.U.)
"Student volunteers carefully sorting through the "heavy fraction" from the wet-sieving -- using highly scientific tools & techniques (small paint brushes, music, coca-cola). Although this is one of the LEAST exciting jobs on an excavation, it is also one of the MOST important. Careful sampling, sorting, and analysis of the floral and faunal remains from Franchthi Cave have allowed archaeologists to develop important theories about ancient diet, husbandry practices, economy, and even about changes in the environment over the long span of human habitation at the site." (I.U.)
"The earliest human burial found at Franchthi dates from the Mesolithic period. The inhumation burial is of a 25 year-old male buried in a shallow pit near the mouth of the cave. He was buried in a contracted position and covered with fist-sized stones (visible in the photo). Forensic analysis indicates that he died from severe blows to the head and that he had suffered from malaria. There were no "grave goods" buried with him, an observation which has led some archaeologists to conclude that the Mesolithic people who used Franchthi cave may have had no developed sense of personal property and/or no significant concerns about life-after-death." (I.U.)
"The burial of an infant from the Early Neolithic period. The infant was only a few weeks old and was buried along with a small marble vessel and one half of a clay vase. This was the only one of 8 Neolithic child burials which contained "grave goods." The presence of such offerings in an infant's burial is unusual and has led some archaeologists to conclude that status may have been hereditary in this Early Neolithic community." (I.U.)
MY favorite part of the cave was that at the end, we got to scale a bunch of rocks that had collapsed at the back of the cave at least several hundred years ago. The climb was probably only 30 or 40 feet, but it made my heart happy. When we got to the top, we could see over the ledge of a chasm that dropped down to where the original ground level of the cave would have been back when people actually lived there. I had to lean over the edge a bit just to be able to see the bottom (which was about 60 or 70 feet down). Since I am actually quite terrified of heights, I don’t really know what possessed me to lean over the edge (No, I did NOT fall into the chasm, if that’s what you were expecting. It was almost anticlimactic in that I was NOT even utterly terrified). Nonetheless, I felt like Indiana Jones (minus the bad guys, and the snakes,etc.) Seriously, it was incredible.
-Katie
N: For the record, I am NOT terrified of heights, yet was thankful I never had to "Indiana Jones" myself across that chasm. Plus, I didn't have the whip and fedora.
Epidavros
On Saturday, we took a break from both the power-hungry Mycenaeans and the crazy Italian/Turkish/Italians of Nafplion. We visited the ancient sanctuary of Epidavros, where we received a clear-as-mud course in Greek mythology and the origins of Western medicine.
The basic premise of the site is that it was dedicated to the mythological hero-turned-God named Asklepios. Supposedly Asklepios was the son of Apollo and a mortal woman named Coronis. Apollo took an interest in his son and sent him to be schooled by a famous healer, Chiron the Centaur. According to the myth, Asklepios became so good as a healer that he was able to bring people back from the dead, which made the line of mortality (that had previously separated humans from gods) pretty thin. This stretching of the boundaries for divinity made Zeus, the supreme god, pretty angry, but Zeus took care of the problem by zapping Asklepios with a thunderbolt and killing him. Well, Apollo got pretty hacked off when he figured out that Zeus had killed his son, so he brought Asklepios back from the dead, making him into a full-fledged immortal god instead of a regular hero. Asklepios got married, had a few kids and started a family business of healing people full-time. Thus, as our professor joked, Asklepios and his kids (who had names like Ygeia, which means “health,” and Therapaea) got together and formed the world’s first HMO.
Well anyways, the sanctuary at Epidavros was famous because ancient Greek people went there to receive healing, and they were healed. Regardless of your opinions on its mythical pagan ancestry or the exact details of the cases recorded at the sanctuary, I felt like what mattered about the site was the idea that disease is only partly physical. That is to say, true healing, or even just general self-improvement, is about the attitude you internalize, the environment with which you surround yourself, and the activities in which you participate. In short, it's not just about the specific problem or ailment you’re trying to overcome. Walking around the grounds of this place was incredible, which says alot because I was with a group of about 30 people, most of whom were pretty loud and didn’t really buy into the almost sacred aura that this place seemed to possess.
We messed around in the world-famous theater, which is not only still standing, but still retains incredible acoustics, seats 14,000, and is used in the summers for performances. We also looked at the ruins of a various altars dedicated to the gods in thanksgiving for their cures, gymnasium (which was a place both for exercise and for learning/philosophizing), a stadium, the temple, the hestiatoreion, and the avaton (which was the place where supplicant people slept in hopes of being healed). Whether the matches were specific exercise for people with certain problems or mere entertainment for people while they were being treated in other ways, I feel from personal experience that the Greeks had the right idea.
-Katie